I couldn’t fight the huge smile on my face as I punched through the set of whitewater and foam rolling towards me. The surf was a bit choppy, but there were lots of waves breaking out really early, guaranteeing at least ten second rides. Considering that an average ride is only three to five seconds, I thought to myself, this is what heaven must look like.
I had barely enough time to turn around and catch my first wave of the day. My arms dug into the water with all their might. Within seconds I felt the power of the wave take over. I popped up almost perfectly and quickly turned frontside. I stuck my left arm out into the wave, letting my fingers just go inside of the forming whitewater. Adrenaline drugged me, wanting more of the euphoria I’ve found myself in. Nothing could be better than this.
It happened really fast. One second I was on top of the world riding a long wave. The next, a dark shadow blocked the sun and loomed over me.