The waves gained momentum with current.

Higher and higher they’d climb, sucking in anything around them.

I paddled out there. With every stroke i too gained momentum.

Here it comes. I shifted my board around.

Crouched on top.

I stood, slightly bending my knees as the wave pushed me back to shore. I glanced to my left and saw a gorilla.

What?! I glanced back, pulling a double take.

The gorilla waved at me, and at the moment i fell off my board.
`

“Mom! Come on! I had that wave..don’t distract me!” I paddled back to shore.